Three Decades of Difference: 1985, 1995 & 2005 Bordeaux

One of the greatest joys of Bordeaux is its time capsule quality. Without hyperbole, no other wine shows its vintage so transparently and ages so assuredly. Bordeaux’s ability to bring wine lovers decades into the past is nothing short of miraculous.

Enter three vintages of distinctly different legacies: 1985, 1995 and 2005. The 1985 vintage, often overshadowed by the legendary ’82s, remains one of the most charming and classically styled Bordeaux years, offering remarkable balance and freshness. Haut-Bailly, available in magnum format, exemplifies the vintage’s best qualities – its fine-grained tannins and graceful evolution have resulted in a wine of remarkable poise; the perfect choice for those looking to celebrate a 40-year milestone in grand style.

’95 has been reevaluated more than most vintages, and for good reason. It was first hailed as a godsend after a historically difficult run from 1991 to 1994, only to be unfairly shunned once the flashier, fuller-bodied ‘96s came on the scene. Today, the wines’ chiseled structures have served them well. 1995 Latour and Margaux are both a delight, offering the nuance of a bygone Bordeaux where grand vins weighed in at a modest 12.5% alcohol, as these elegant revelations do.

2005, in contrast, has rightly been celebrated all along. Ideal weather conditions lent these wines herculean frames that flexed generous fruit and ironclad tannins on release. In many cases, the wines are only just entering their drinking window, but the consensus has been that the wait was well worth it. While all the 2005s on offer are marvelous, D’Issan and Fourtet had especially good years. Of course, the chance to try 2005 Latour and Margaux alongside their seniors from ’95 should not be missed either. If there can be a dark horse in such a standout vintage, it is Larcis Ducasse, whom Parker awarded a perfect score when tasted in 2015, hailing “the resurrection of a great terroir.” Since then, this wine has continued to garner praise from respected critics like Antonio Galloni and Neal Martin from Vinous.