Notes from Chablis

Being back in Chablis in June was one of the highlights of my summer travels. This small village is full of wonderful producers, making some of France's most terroir-reflective wines. Christian Moreau was on typically effusive form, as were his wines. The house style leans towards concentration of fruit and richness of texture; a style very comfortable for lovers of Côte de Beaune whites.

Benoît Droin's wines remain some of Chablis's most exciting, with the terroir differences starkly marked between the cuvées. These are mid-weight, transparent wines of outstanding mineral expression.

Finally, the mercurial Vincent Dauvissat welcomed us to taste his intense, resonant wines. It's hardly news, but they remain among the high points of the region for their quiet depths and complexities. Do not sleep on the 2014s: one of the finest vintages so far this century and drinking beautifully today.

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