Collection: Bodega Chacra: Sustainable Patagonian Expression
If a few decades ago one had predicted that some of the world’s most prominent winemakers would set foot in a remote, desertic area of Argentina – that only a few knew was favorable to viticulture – to make sustainable, low-intervention wines in a style radically different from typical Argentinian Malbecs, their claim would have been deemed outlandish at best, crazy at worst.
But that’s the idea that went through Piero Incisa della Rochetta’s mind at an event in New York City, as he was blind-tasting a Pinot Noir from the Rio Negro area of Patagonia. The Tuscan grandson of Sassicaia’s trailblazing founder, Marchese Mario Incisa della Rochetta, Piero promptly visited Patagonia and acquired an old but abandoned winery in the Mainqué region with vineyards planted as far back as 1932. In this micro-climate where vines are naturally protected from diseases and can be planted without grafts, Piero knew he could produce world-class Pinot Noirs. In 2004, Bodega Chacra was born. Della Rochetta soon enlisted his friend Jean-Marc Roulot, the esteemed Meursault producer, who helped plant vines and later farmed and vinified the first Chardonnay harvest at the estate.
Two decades later, the wines speak for themselves. The Pinots are bright and transparent, the Chardonnays are opulent and fresh. Made from the younger vines on the property, Barda is light and fragrant; served chilled, it is a terrific summer red, pairing universally with all kinds of al fresco fare. Expect more depth from Treinta y Dos, a single-vineyard wine featuring vines planted in 1932 that shows spices and cherry notes framed by velvety tannins. Sin Azufre and the Rio Negro Trousseau show della Rochetta at his most experimental, using old vines of Trousseau from a neighbor for the latter and 100% Pinot Noir free-run juice from vineyards planted in 1955 for the former. The Mainqué Chardonnay goes through partial malolactic fermentation only, preserving its immediate charm and racy salinity. For the flagship Chacra Chardonnay, Roulot and della Rochetta find more texture and concentration, with hints of citrus, vanilla and butter culminating in a long, detailed finish.
Bodega Chacra’s immediate cult status has made the visionary instincts of the Sassicaia heir very clear. Piero Incisa della Rochetta has been reaping the rewards of his hard work in his Patagonian vineyards. May you, too, enjoy the fruit of his labor– from your patio!