Puligny-Montrachet: A Delicate Expression

Puligny-Montrachet’s reputation as the most delicate expression of the Côte de Beaune is as well-established as it is hard to explain. Some point to the poorer soils to explain its finesse in comparison to neighboring Chassagne. Others argue the village’s higher water table meant less room to dig cellars, thus less space to age wines in barrels versus the historically oakier wines of both its neighbors, Chassagne and Meursault. Whatever the reason, Puligny has maintained its status as the village of choice for those seeking Chardonnay at its most weightless, mineral-driven, and pure.

Today’s offer features Puligny’s marquee Premier Crus and many more. For Puligny’s pinnacle, follow the belt of vineyards at the same elevation as Puligny’s Grand Crus. Pucelles and Clavoillon are represented here by the domaine that made them famous, Domaine Leflaive. Les Perrières is represented by Puligny’s other oldest winemaking family, the Carillons, and Henri Boillot’s iconic Clos de la Mouchère, a walled monopole within Les Perrières.

Further up the slope, one finds thinner, rockier soil, creating more structured, vinous wines. Benoît Ente’s cerebral La Truffière brilliantly captures this phenomenon, as do François Carillon’s efforts from the neighboring Les Folatières and Champ Gain.

In Puligny-Montrachet’s village wines, one finds more accessible introductions to the village’s style. Freshly bottled 2023s from Etienne Sauzet and Bachelet-Monnot showcase the state of the art in the newest vintage, but don’t overlook the sunny, approachable 2022s, classically crisp 2021s, and powerful 2020s.