Clos de Vougeot: Parsing the Iconic Giant of Grands Crus

Clos de Vougeot, the Côte des Nuits’ largest Premier Cru, is an icon and an enigma. The Château du Clos de Vougeot is a historic treasure, built in the 1500s and today used as the headquarters for the Chevaliers du Tastevin. But the vineyard surrounding it is known as much for its size as it is for its quality. At 51 hectares, with a multitude of exposures and seams of clay and limestone criss-crossing throughout, how can one speak of typicity in such a multifaceted vineyard?

To unlock Vougeot, pay attention to where each domaine’s holdings lie in the vineyard, and how long they have farmed them.

The spectacular Clos de Vougeot of Méo-Camuzet is a case in point. Etienne Camuzet was once the château’s owner, and today Méo-Camuzet is still the second largest landholder in the vineyard. The largest swath of Méo-Camuzet’s land sits just east of the château, about 200 meters from the border with Grands Echezeaux and the same distance from Musigny. The wine lives up to its pedigree, offering sumptuous layers of raspberry kirsch and clove with obvious aging potential.

The same slice of land between Musigny and Echezeaux holds a number of other standout producers: Domaine Hudelot-Noëllat produces an expansive and classic Vougeot here, characterized by velvety texture and aromas of dark berries and chocolate shavings.

To the south, directly on the Echezeaux border, the Grand Maupertui lieu-dit offers a lighter, airier expression of Vougeot. Henri Boillot’s plot here creates absolutely charming wines, brimming with fresh red fruit and blood orange notes. Somewhat lesser known, Jean-Marc Millot’s Grand Maupertui is a masterclass in balance, threading a delicate bouquet of spice through the powerful structure of a Grand Cru wine made with confidence and class.