American Pinot: A Starry Lineup

American wine contains multitudes, and its Pinot Noir output is no exception. From California and Oregon, just about every style and winemaking approach is available, the benign west coast climate yielding ripe, supple examples of this irresistible variety.

In California, the plusher, fuller style is well represented by Peter Michael's Ma Danseuse. A touch lighter and more zesty are the wines of Kistler and Occidental in Sonoma. Down near Santa Barbara, sister properties Sandhi and Domaine de la Côte target an unforced, balanced style, appealing to all comers. Finally, the new wave of cool, high-acid Pinot wines from the Sonoma Coast are represented by Radio-Coteau and Ceritas.

Further north in Oregon, the Willamette Valley continues to be a source of fresh, slightly drier Pinot Noir than California. Bethel Heights and Walter Scott, both with holdings in the volcanic soils of the Eola-Amity Hills AVA in the southern part of the zone, make concentrated but dry, smoky, focused styles, and come highly recommended.