Opulence and Hedonism: Bâtard-Montrachet

Among the Montrachet Grands Crus, Bâtard tends towards opulence, exoticism and perhaps the most hedonistic of all of these great sites. The generous layers of fruit are shot through with the trademark Montrachet stony minerality, yielding wines both generous and taut. These are among Burgundy’s finest white expressions, and fortunately for us, many top white wine producers have holdings here.

Perhaps the best known name is Domaine Leflaive, whose reductive, mineral-driven style never goes out of fashion. If anything, both Henri Boillot and the brilliant Bachelet-Monnot offer greater energy, without ever sacrificing fruit concentration. Ramonet, on the other hand, is the master of the millefeuille of fruit: layers of immaculate, bright, juicy fruit. Those wines are always memorable. Finally, don’t sleep on the other Leflaive, Olivier. The quality of the wines has soared in the past decade and can easily compete with the more celebrated names.