Corton-Charlemagne: The Top Producers

Corton-Charlemagne is indisputably one of the great Grands Crus of Burgundy, but its reputation is not what it should be. Large sections of this big site are owned by Beaune négociants, who have not always prioritised quality. This is changing quickly, however, and a new generation of small growers who own (or rent) small sections of the vineyard are producing whites to match any in the region.

A recent new development is the leasing, by Bonneau du Martray, of a portion of their vines to Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. For the first time, the domaine is producing Corton-Charlemagne, and the quality is already being compared to their famous example of Montrachet.

Domaine des Croix, from David Croix, is a good example, producing a fresh, taut style for an attractive price. Henri Boillot, a still somewhat under-appreciated producer, makes a brilliant Corton-Charlemagne, full of minerality and tension. But if I could choose one among these smaller producers, it would have to be Ramonet; from a domaine based in Chassagne-Montrachet, the Charlemagne bottling is a rarity. Ramonet's flinty, spearmint-inflected style harnesses the potential of this site beautifully.