A Châteauneuf Benchmark: Clos des Papes

Châteauneuf-du-Pape was one of the French regions to start innovating early in this century, with producers offering all sorts of special and limited cuvées. The success of these was decidedly mixed and many winemakers are now returning to a more straightforward portfolio of wines. One estate that never changed is the Avril family's Clos des Papes; one of the few producers to offer one red Châteauneuf only.

The family is fortunate to own 40 hectares (around 90 acres) of prime Châteauneuf vineyard, including top sites near the village. The red wine is unusual in including all 13 permitted varieties, although with the standard predominance of Grenache. While winemaking is relatively conventional, it is the very careful selection and low yields that contribute to the exceptional quality of the wines. These are Châteauneuf wines of huge depth and complexity; and essential in the collection of any Rhône lover.